Known for his opulent, dramatic and devastatingly beautiful collections, ingenious designer Zang Toi did not disappoint with his Fall-Winter collection, “Paris of the Orient.” Magnificent separates and extravagant gowns glided down the runway with no detail spared, from intricate beading to architectural bejeweling to precision tailoring. “The inspiration behind the collection was Shanghai in the 1930s and the Art Deco style,” says Zang. “It was a very decadent time.”
With a thriving shopping scene, Parisian-like cafés and grandiose movie theaters showing the latest Hollywood films the ‘30s were certainly a luxurious, prosperous time for Shanghai, the first metropolis of the Far East. A booming nightlife saw politicians, celebrities and some of history’s most famous gangsters rubbing elbows in the city’s most popular jazz clubs, adding a hint of danger to the era.
Working together with Zang, renowned hairstylist Eiji Yamane of Eiji Salon decided to bring this particular element to the hair for Zang’s latest collection. “We wanted to update and bring 1930s Shanghai to 2014. This woman is glamorous, sexy, beautiful and a little dangerous,” says Eiji. Zang adds, “The hair is perfectly coifed and seductive. The hair has a very socialite look.” To bring his creative vision to life—a curled, glossy coif that extends into a simple looped bun—Eiji exclusively used René Furterer products. Here, Eiji takes us step by step on how he crafted this daring style:
* To start, I take a section of hair from the top of head and I curl it with a 1” curling iron away from the face. Once I have the curl, I clip it to keep its shape.
* Using a boar-bristle brush, I dip into the René Furterer STYLING WAX and begin brushing the wax through hair. This begins to give hair a nice sheen in addition to smoothing hair down and getting rid of flyaways. Still brushing in product, I then gather hair at the nape of the head into a low ponytail and hold it in place with a black bungee cord.
* Prior to the show, we curled and clipped beautiful 100% human hair extensions from Fantasy Fashion Hair that matched each model’s hair color. To the side of the curl we made earlier, we pin the base of the hair piece securely to the top of the head and clip the length of the piece along the side of the head.
* Unclipping the curl, I split the strand in two and make a deep side part. With the hair closest to the extension, I loop and wrap the model’s hair around the hair piece and begin to weave them seamlessly together. Once we reach the end of the hair piece, we wrap the remainder of the model’s hair around the bungee cord of the ponytail.
* Once again, I dip my brush into René Furterer STYLING WAX and brush through the length of the ponytail to make hair completely smooth. Though many of the models who walked the show had the long hair we needed to create the final look, those with shorter styles required additional hair pieces to provide overall length for the next step.
* Taking the end of the ponytail, I make a loop and roll it toward the base of the ponytail and pin it into place with bobby pins. The low bun should then be shaped and pinned towards the side of the head with the hair piece. We create the shape by fanning hair slightly. The bun isn’t meant to look overly complicated but there should be a nice flow from the side curl into the bun.
* To create the high gloss shine that we need for this look, I spray entire head with René Furterer GLOSSING SPRAY. Next, we take the remaining loose curl at the top of the head and pin the strand on the side of head without the hair piece. I also place clips into the strand to maintain the spiral, and then I tuck the end into the base of the bun. Finally, to set the curls and keep everything in place, I generously spray entire head with René Furterer VEGETAL FINISHING SPRAY.
* We keep all clips in hair until right before models walk the runway so curls won’t lose their shape. During the show, some models wore fedoras carefully placed on an angle that didn’t crush or hurt the hair look. And in one very special case, we created an entire wig in the shade of Zang’s “brilliant jade” that was seen throughout his collection!
*Photo Credits: John M. Craig for René Furterer